Spain Travel Reflections: From Pilgrim Paths to the Mediterranean Coast
This trip to Spain was a journey of adventure, reflection, and celebration. From the
bustling streets of Madrid to the quiet emotional triumphs in Santiago de Compostela,
the historic beauty of Granada, the sun-soaked beaches of Nerja, and a surprising taste
of the UK in Gibraltar, every moment was a story worth remembering. I traveled with the
goal of celebrating my best friend’s incredible completion of the Camino de Santiago,
but along the way, I discovered the joys, challenges, and unexpected delights that make
Spain such a vibrant and unforgettable country. Here’s a look at the highlights, lessons
learned, and tips from our journey — with plenty of personal reflections along the way.
Madrid – Arrival in Spain
After a long flight from Chicago, with a short layover, I finally landed in Madrid. The airport was bigger than expected, with a long walk to customs and separate lines for Europeans and non-Europeans — a little confusing at first. Navigating baggage and ride options was tricky, too. I opted for a taxi (33€) instead of trying Uber from the upper level, which saved me some stress.
I stayed at Hotel Don Pio, a cozy spot in the business district with everything I needed: WiFi, hot water, tea, and toiletries. A grocery store across the street provided a quick sushi dinner and a pistachio croissant — perfect for my first night that was intended to be a quick stop close to the Madrid-Chamartin-Clara train station for travels the next day.
Travel Tip: Madrid airport can be a bit confusing for first-timers. Give yourself extra time to navigate customs and baggage, and know your transport options in advance.
Santiago de Compostela – Celebrating a Pilgrim’s Finish Line
The next morning, I took a three-hour train to Santiago de Compostela, where I was on a mission to find and celebrate my best friend finishing the Camino de Santiago. Seeing her and other pilgrims cross the finish line was an emotional, powerful moment — one I’ll never forget. While most finished on foot, some finished on bikes and even a few on horseback! If you don’t know about the Camino pilgrimage, I encourage you to look it up!
We stayed two nights:
- Casa Celsa-Barbantes (first night) — small room but amazing windows and a balcony overlooking the cathedral. Perfect location for taking in the city’s energy.
- San Miguel Hotel (second night) — a quieter spot with a sunroom and countryside views, giving a peaceful contrast to the bustling center.
We toured the cathedral with a pre-purchased combo ticket including the roofs and towers (Cubiertas + Torre Carraca). The provided tour guide only spoke in Spanish, but the experience was still incredible. Highlights included the Pilgrims’ Mass (also in Spanish) and witnessing the swinging of the Botafumeiro, something not everyone gets to experience.
Highlights:
- Pilgrims finishing the Camino
- Cathedral rooftops and towers
- Pilgrims’ Mass; Botafumeiro experience
- Viewing the apostle James’ remains in the crypt (this marks the 7th apostle’s relic I’ve had the chance to see – click here to read more about each of these remarkable experiences and learn where the other apostles rest today).
Travel Tip:
Even if you don’t speak Spanish, QR codes and signage in English can
help, as well as Google Translate. Don’t be afraid of heights if you plan to explore the cathedral roofs!
Granada – Beauty, History, and a Few Bumps Along the Way
From Santiago, we returned to Madrid by train (comfort class with breakfast and
screens — a nice treat). We then took another series of trains to Malaga and finally to Granada, after a small ticket snafu at Atocha station in Madrid.
Granada was only one night, but it was packed with history and charm:
- Picked up a rental car in the morning (free upgrade to BMW after delays).
- Visited the Alhambra — though we missed our English-speaking tour due to delays picking up the rental car, thankfully our entry tickets were left for us to pick up so we were still able to soak up the beauty and history.
- Enjoyed lunch at the hotel café (tuna sandwich and chocolate cake).
- Evening strolls, shopping in town, and visiting BasÃlica de San Juan de Dios.
- Ended the night watching authentic flamenco in the caves at Cuevas los Tarantos, followed by a lovely dinner at Jardines Alberto.
Lessons Learned:
- Parking near Alhambra has a 24-hour window; no need to stress about moving your car immediately after closing.
- Allow extra time for taxis and unexpected processions — Spain is full of religious and cultural traditions and loves a good parade!
- This was an overly ambitious day’s itinerary, and as often happens when traveling, one delay cascaded into another, shifting the rhythm of the day.
Travel Tip:
Buy train tickets in advance to ensure most efficient routes. Buy Alhambra tickets in advance and confirm your tour language. Flamenco shows in the caves are unforgettable — get there early to catch the best spots.
Nerja – Sunshine and Seaside Bliss
Next, we drove to the quaint Mediterranean town of Nerja for a few days of beach relaxation. Our apartment was right near Playa del Chucho, perfect for swimming and relaxing. We bought floaties at a nearby beach store for extra fun.
Food highlights:
- Bamboo Restaurant: divine seafood paella (carrot and chocolate cake
were disappointments)
- La Dama Pizza; Pasta: $5 pasta carbonara, $1 to add chicken, $1.80 house wine — amazing value!
We also explored Playa del Maro, a sand beach with a reef for snorkeling, and the massive, awe-inspiring caves of Cueva de Nerja.
Unexpected Change:
Our canyoning adventure at Rio Verde was canceled the night before. No worries — we had a backup plan.
Travel Tip:
Apartments near the main beaches are convenient for swimming,
walking/jogging along paved coastal paths, and local dining. Always have a backup plan for outdoor activities — Spain loves surprises!
Gibraltar – A Taste of the UK in Spain
With our canyoning canceled, we drove 2.5 hours south to Gibraltar — technically part of the UK, so it felt like entering a new country!
Highlights:
- Passport stamp at the border
- Barbary macaques at the natural reserve
- Skywalk, Windsor Suspension Bridge, Pillars of Hercules, St. Michael’s Cave
- Fish and chips at The Star Bar, the town’s oldest bar
Travel Tip:
Buy a Gibraltar Pass for the main attractions and transportation options.
Bring your passport! If you drive, park in the spacious lots in Spain prior to crossing the border.
Madrid (Return) – Literary Streets and Final Reflections
For the final leg, we returned to Madrid via fast train from Malaga. We stayed in the literary district (Barrio de las Letras), walking along Calle de las Huertas and seeing literary quotes engraved on streets.
Highlights included:
- Almudena Cathedral and Royal Palace, Museum - Sol neighborhood
- Dining: Empanadas at El Diario (meh) and Castizo for small plates and octopus — memorable food and a chance to meet a local friend.
Madrid was crowded and a bit dirtier than other cities, but full of energy and culture. A premium economy flight home made the end of the trip feel luxurious. Travel Tip: Use the MPC app to speed up customs on the way out. Literary andhistorical districts are best explored on foot — take your time and soak in the stories on the streets.
Madrid was crowded and a bit dirtier than other cities, but full of energy and culture. A premium economy flight home made the end of the trip feel luxurious. Travel Tip: Use the MPC app to speed up customs on the way out. Literary andhistorical districts are best explored on foot — take your time and soak in the stories on the streets.
Closing Reflection
Spain is a country that blends history, culture, faith, and natural beauty seamlessly.
From celebrating incredible pilgrimages to wandering medieval streets, lounging on
Mediterranean beaches, and exploring unexpected corners like Gibraltar, every day
offered a new story. Some plans went awry, but those moments often became the most
memorable. Whether you’re walking in the footsteps of pilgrims, admiring architecture,
or simply enjoying tapas by the sea, Spain invites you to slow down, savor each
moment, and embrace the adventure.